Japan – The Spirit of Japan Tours

Nara – a story of ancient temples, traditions and …. deer

makaylasadamori — Wed, 24 May 2023 08:07:15 +0000

Nara – a story of ancient temples, traditions and … deer

READING TIME: 5 MINUTES.

Breaking an ancient tradition

In ancient times, according to Shinto traditions with the passing of each Emperor their palace was abandoned because it was seen as impure. The capital was then moved to a new location. In the year 708 AD the Empress Genmei broke with this wasteful tradition and with a decree established her capital in the city of Heijo, present days Nara. Nara will remain a capital of Japan until 784 AD after which the capital will be moved to Kyoto. So, even if Nara was not Japan’s first capital it was the country’s first permanent one.

Kofukuji Temple – the oldest temple in Nara, was rebuilt several times but has miraculously retained its original design

The city was modeled after the Chinese Tang dynasty’s capital. It was laid out on a grid divided by four great roads with the ruler’s palace in the center of this grid. It was believed that the ruler had the power to bring heaven to earth. Through placing the palace in the middle of the city, the ruler not only dominated the capital but also brought heavenly energies to it. Not much of the original palace has remained but we can still see many of Nara’s ancient temples and shrines that collectively form the Historic Monument of Ancient Nara, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Oh, deer!

The first thing that grabs the attention when you enter Nara Park, where the historical sites are, is the deer. Nothing can prepare you for the sight of more than 1,000 of them freely roaming the grounds, completely unafraid of people. Believed to be messenger of the gods, the deer were considered sacred. Killing one of these sacred deer was a capital offense up until 1637, the last recorded date of a breach of that law. In present days they are designated as a Natural Monument and are protected as such.

The first thing you see when entering Nara Park is the deer

The deer are said to be wild animals. They feed on grass and other plants that grow in the park, however their favorite treat are shika senbei, or deer crackers that are sold by many vendors around the park. The deep can be quite insistent demanding their treat so be careful to not get butted by one of those horns! Most of the time however they are sweet and a lot of fun, graciously posing for a photo with the many visitors. We visited Nara in mid May and were fortunate to also see the little fawns running beside their mothers – all in all it was a truly unique experience I haven’t had anywhere else.

The temples of Nara

The gate of the Todaiji Temple is impressive with its giant wooden columns

Near the entrance of Nara Park is the Kofukuji Temple, the oldest in Nara. Originally built in the 7th century, it was destroyed and rebuilt several times through the millennia of its existence. Miraculously, the temple has retained its original design. I found the contrast between the dark varnished wood of the columns and the white walls beautiful in its simplicity. What impressed me the most however was Kofukuji’s 5-story pagoda. At 50 meters it is the second tallest pagoda in Japan, just 7 meters shorter than the pagoda at Kyoto’s Toji Temple. The timing of our visit was fortunate because in July this year the pagoda will be closed for restorations (the last time it was rebuilt was in 1426 so it is very old!) and won’t be open to the public until 2026. Below you can see a short video I took at Kofukuji that I hope will give you a better sense of how impressive both structures are.

On the opposite side of the Nara Park is the Todaiji temple – the biggest wooden building in the world. It is the home of the largest bronze statue of the Buddha in Japan – the 16 meters tall Daibutsu – the Big Buddha of Nara. Taking photos inside the building was prohibited so I can’t show you the statue however, on the photo below you will see the temple building. The tiny human shapes in front of its huge gates give a good idea of the sheer size of Todaiji.

The Todaiji Temple in Nara is the largest wooden structure in the world

There are more beautiful temples and shrines to see but unfortunately a late afternoon shower put a stop to our explorations. If you visit Nara and want to see everything the World Heritage Site has to offer put aside a day for it. In this way you can go through the sites slowly and have plenty of time to be friendly with Nara’s deer too.

Nara is a place that every young Japanese will visit at least once during their school years – it is a popular school trip destination. On our visit we saw many middle and high-school students learning about their country’s remarkable history, enjoying the deer and generally having fun. My guess is that one of the most popular souvenirs they bring home from Nara are the deer antler headbands. Everyone was wearing them! Oh, deer!

On a school trip to Nara

Hokkaido – Japan’s Emerald Island

makaylasadamori — Sat, 30 Jul 2022 22:56:59 +0000

Hokkaido – Japan’s Emerald Island (Part 1)

READING TIME: 5 MINUTES.

When it is hot hot hot the way to go is North!

Summers in Japan are generally hot and humid. There is, however one place that enjoys a very different climate from the rest of the country and that is Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island. a few years ago our son spent 6 months working on a project in Sapporo, the island’s main city, so we combined a visit to see him with sightseeing I had been wanting to do for quite some time.

Summertime Sapporo, the main city of Hokkaido

My one and only previous visit to Hokkaido was when I had just arrived in Japan 3 decades ago – it was at the New Year’s and everything was covered with a deep blanket of snow. I did not remember much but the great ski slopes and the delicious sea food we had. I wanted to see the island in the summer, drive inland and enjoy the cooler weather and beautiful landscapes. Hokkaido however had a grand surprise for us, which was cold and rain. It rained for four days of the week we spent there! That seemed to be not uncommon, to be honest far from perfect, but at the same time the rain and the fog made everything look mysterious, sometimes even otherworldly. It was a fantastic experience so I had no complains Here our journey into dark and rainy Hokkaido begins ~

A jump into the past of Japan’s northern frontier – Otaru

A fishing boats harbor in Otaru – note the houses in the background with a distinct northern European architecture

One thing to keep in mind about Hokkaido is that it was colonized and became a part of Japan only in the late 1800-es. Because of that, it has its distinct flavor that is not quite Japanese. The first place we visited – Otaru, was a good example of that. A small harbor city an hour away of Sapporo, Otaru played an important role as a trade and fishing port in the early days of colonization. The influence of Western culture and architecture there was quite palpable. Walking through the old part of town, where many old trading companies had their offices and warehouses, was like a jump into the past of Japan’s northern frontier.

The old offices of Mitsui Bank in Otaru

In present days many of those buildings have been converted into restaurants, cafes and galleries. Each building had its own character and I greatly enjoyed walking down the street and seeing the creative ways the city had preserved its history.

Me, enjoying a late afternoon walk in rainy Otaru

The city is also famous with its glass-works – it was a treat to browse through shops offering beautifully made objects and jewelry made of glass.

Halloween in August – Otaru has the vibe!

To me, the rain and the fog didn’t take a way from the charm of Otaru but enhanced it and gave the town a mysterious, almost Halloween-esque atmosphere. The late afternoon was dark but the light coming from the windows of the old houses lining Otaru’s streets and canals was warm and inviting, so magical. I loved it!

Halloween in August – rain, fog and warm lights by one of Otaru’s canals

Food – simply delicious!

Hokkaido is famous with its fresh seafood, particularly uni (sea-urchins,) scallops and herrings. Otaru, being a fishing harbor has many restaurants offering fish and other sea-food caught just a few hours before it is served. For dinner we went to a traditional restaurant where we had the freshest sashimi, herring cooked and presented in a very creative way and some of the best yaki-tori (chicken skewers) we had ever had.

Hokkaido is a place for fresh seafood

What added to the enjoyment of our dining experience was the atmosphere – very often the restaurants are small and located in old Japanese style houses – we loved that!

An old house in Otaru turned into a restaurant

Fishing has been and still is an important part of the livelihood of Hokkaido’s people. This has been reflected in their folklore with one of the most famous Japanese song and dance – Soran Bushi, originating from the area. Soran Bushi, a dance that depicts ocean waves and fishermen dragging out of the water nets heavy with herring is taught in many schools in Japan and is something Japanese kid perform at their school sports festivals. I am attaching a video here for you to hear this beautiful traditional song and see how amazing the kids are performing the dance that asks for quite a lot of agility.

Part 2 of our trip will take us to Tomamu, a famous ski resort in the heart of the island and the Tomita flower and lavender fields

O-Higan – the time when day and night are equal

makaylasadamori — Thu, 23 Sep 2021 23:57:19 +0000

O-Higan – the time when the Day and Night become equal

READING TIME: 5 MINUTES.

A season rich with tradition

The Japanese lantern plants are adding a seasonal touch to this O-Higan decoration

Today, the 23 of September is the autumnal equinox. Both the vernal and the autumnal equinox are national holiday here. It is believed that during these times of the year, called O-Higan in Japanese when the day and the night are of equal length, our world and the ‘other’ are at the closest to each other thus making it easier to connect with those who have passed. On O-Higan families all over Japan visit their ancestral graves to clean them and honor the family members who have passed with flowers and incense.

O-Higan is a Buddhist tradition observed since ancient times. Literally translated the word means the other shore, hence the celebration of the deceased ancestors. However, the same word is used for nirvana (enlightenment) which in Buddhist teachings is compared to reaching the ‘other shore’. Thus O-Higan is also a time for practitioners to reflect on their lives and to renew their dedication to their practices.

What else to enjoy in early Fall

Bunches of harvested rice drying under the warn autumn sun

To me personally, O-Higan is one of my favorite times of the year. The oppressive summer heat has left and the days are warm and sunny. The newly harvested rice fields are covered with racks with the reaped rice stalks, tided in fat bunches are left to dry. Since all the hard harvesting work is over, it is a time to celebrate and enjoy the abundance of the season. Many neighborhoods hold harvest festivals that are so much fun to attend. Then there is Jugoya – a special day to view the Harvest Moon and enjoy delicious Moon cakes. It is a wonderful season to be in Japan.

The stars of the season

Blooming Higan-bana setting this meadow on fire

Something else I love about this time of the year are the beautiful Higan-bana (literally: equinox flowers) – the bright red spider lilies that line the paths and cover parks and meadows with striking carpets of crimson. There are many places in Tokyo where we can view these beautiful flowers. One of them is on the hill next to the Takahata Fudo temple. You can have a glimpse of the flaming Higan-bana in the video billow. Enjoy!

Makayla

The Magic Of Cherry Blossoms

makaylasadamori — Fri, 26 Mar 2021 12:47:20 +0000

The Magic Of Cherry Blossoms

READING TIME: 5 MINUTES.

The most awaited time of the year

Once the first week of March is over, Japan begins to get ready to welcome its most beloved flowers – the cherry blossoms, or sakura as they are called here. There is a daily update on the news of how the cherry blossoms ‘front’ is progressing northward through the archipelago. There is joyful anticipation in the air as people wait the for the blooming trees to transform the towns and cities into a fairytale of white and pink flowers.

Are the sakura cherry trees?

Sakura trees are different from ordinary cherry trees as they don’t produce fruit but instead have been cultivated over the centuries for their beautiful flowers. The cherry blossoms are considered the unofficial icon of Japan, and the trees are so loved and venerated that they are often given as a precious gift to other countries and symbolize Japan’s spirit and friendship.

Hanami – flower viewing

In Japan, the blooming of the sakura heralds the true arrival of spring. It is a time to rejoice and enjoy the beauty of the trees. Hanami, or ‘flower-viewing parties’ are a common sight at this time of the year. In parks, shrines and temples, people sit under the flower heavy branches and share food and drinks with their family and friends. It is a wonderful time to celebrate! There is so much tradition and even vocabulary associated with the blooming trees: for example, Yozakura means ‘cherry blossoms at night’. In many parks and gardens the trees are illuminated after sundown with the lights giving the blossoms an almost ethereal glow. There are special sweets and tea that are enjoyed during blossom viewing, and in many areas across Japan there are cherry blossom festivals.

One of the most famous ones in Tokyo is the Meguro River Festival. At night, the pink lanterns strung along the river and the sakura trees lining its banks combine forces to create a magical world of flowers and light. It is a festive sight to behold and enjoy with a glass of pink champagne with strawberries that can be purchased at one of the many stalls offering food and drinks.

The wabi-sabi of cherry blossoms

Interestingly, the cherry blossom season is also a time we become acutely aware of the ephemeral nature of life. The exquisite beauty of the trees is enchanting, but it is very short lived – like clouds of pink snow, in just two weeks their petals will fall and will be swept away by the wind. This cycle is embodied in the concept of mono aware. Influenced by Buddhism, mono aware is described as the bittersweet feeling one has when witnessing the grand play of Life. It is a combination of appreciation of Life’s beauty and sadness of how transient it is. Perhaps this is another reason why the blooming sakura trees have such a strong cultural impact in Japan – their beauty teaches us appreciation but also acceptance of the cycles of Life

Below are the links to two of my virtual tours that offer spectacular cherry blossoms viewing. The trees normally bloom between the third week of March and the first week of April. To ensure you can see the cherry blossoms contact Makayla before booking.

Takahata Fudo Temple Virtual Tour

Jindaiji Temple Virtual Tour

Setsubun – the day dividing the seasons

makaylasadamori — Mon, 08 Feb 2021 03:21:23 +0000

Setsubun – the day dividing the seasons

READING TIME: 5 MINUTES.

When is Setsubun

Something I love about life in Japan are the seasonal festivals and celebrations. Almost every month has its unique celebration and to me that adds a sweet rhythm to the flow of life in this country. There is always something enjoyable to look forward to. The festival for February is called Setsubun. Literally translated that means ‘the day dividing the seasons.’ According to the Japanese Lunar calendar it marks the end of winter and for the last 123 years it had fallen on February 3rd. This year, in a similar way to a leap year the date was adjusted so, for the first time in generations we celebrated Setsubun on February 2nd. But how can winter end so early, you may ask and how the day was decided? Here are some answers to that.

The day separating the seasons

Setsubun is an interesting day. It is exactly in the middle between the Winter Solstice and the Spring Equinox. In that sense we may look at it as a day of transition, when Winter begins to fade away to be gradually replaced by the energies of Spring. Also, the traditional Japanese Lunar calendar is divided into 24 sekki. This by itself is an interesting combination of characters: 節 (Setsu) means a section and 気 (ki) is Chi or spirit, energy. I often find the Japanese language fascinating in how it expresses spiritual principles in its words (that’s a theme worthy of a blog by itself!) So it would appear that the ancient astrologers divided the year into 24 sections with a different flow of Chi. The day after Setsubun is Risshin, or the first day of Spring. Perhaps it is just my perception but it does feel as if winter is beginning to fade away: the first flowers of spring are blooming in the gardens and the plum trees are opening their blossoms too. Spring is on its way!

Celebrating Setsubun

There are several fun Setsubun traditions with the most popular one being mame-maki, which in Japanese means throwing beans. The period of time surrounding the Setsubun was thought to bring the spirit world closer to the physical one. Thus, practices like mame-maki became popular. Tossing the beans is symbolic of driving away any evil spirits (Oni in Japanese,) who might have wandered too close to the physical realm. Traditionally a man from the household dresses as an Oni and puts on a scary mask. It is believed that the Oni are afraid of beans so kids trow handful of roasted soy beans at the Oni shouting: Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi! (Demons get out! Good luck come in!) and chase him out of the house.

Charms that keep the Oni out

To ensure that the evil Oni will not return to the house, a special protective charm made of hiiragi (a holly-like plant with spiky leaves) and stalks of soy beans with the pods still attached, is placed at the entrance door of the house. To fortify its Oni repelling powers, the head of a dried sardine is skewered on one of the branches. According to traditional beliefs, the smell of the sardine, the spikes of the hiiragi leaves and the beans in the pods will keep the evil spirits away!

Setsubun auspicious foods

An old Setsubun tradition is to eat the number of lucky beans (Fuku-mame in Japanese) that is your age so that the year is a prosperous one for you.

Another tradition that originates in the Kansai region but has recently become popular in other parts of the country too is eating Ehomaki . These are thick sushi rolls made with seven ingredients – one for each of the Seven Lucky Gods. These sushi should not be cut but should be served whole and eaten in silence facing the auspicious direction for the year. Cutting them would mean cutting off your luck and your relationships.

Temple Setsubun celebrations

If you happen to be in Japan on the Setsubun day don’t miss the special celebrations at the temples and the shrines. This year I was fortunate to observe the rituals at the Takahata Fudo temple, an unforgettable experience to me. The spirit at the temple was so upbeat and festive. There were many stalls, erected especially for the occasion that sold lucky charms, souvenirs, food and of course small bags with Fuku-mame, each with a lucky coin inside. The Fire Purification ritual that the temple is famous for was performed several times and the sound of its drums and the chanting added magic to the occasion. Then there was the solemn procession of monks, dressed in their colorful formal robes moving under the rhythm of the bells attached to the scepter of their leader – we don’t see this very often and when we do it is impressive. Bellow is a short video I took of the festivities. I couldn’t take a video of the whole event because I had a virtual tour at the same time (yes, my clients was very lucky to be ‘visiting’ the temple on that day!) but I believe it is enough to give you a taste of the festivities. And, if you want to see more of the Takahata Fudo temple through one of my live virtual tours click on the link below the video for details. For those who want to learn more about the Seven Lucky gods I added a link to my blog dedicated to them. Enjoy!

Takahata Fudo Temple Virtual Tour

The Seven Gods Of Good Fortune Blog

Dondo Yaki – the bonfires ending the New Year

makaylasadamori — Mon, 01 Feb 2021 05:07:37 +0000

A wonderful aspect of living in an old farming community was that they still faithfully observed their traditions. On the 7th day of January of our first new year there, a Dondo Yaki hut was erected on an empty rice field. The hut had a door and was big enough to have a large group of 10-15 people inside. In the middle of the hut there was a pit for the fire lighting the dark interior of the hut. It was also a place to brew to brew tea and grill Mochi cakes for the various women’s groups that gathered in the hut daily and, in the evenings to warm sake for the men.

Daruma dolls: just a toy or so much more?

makaylasadamori — Thu, 14 Jan 2021 13:08:01 +0000

Daruma dolls: a toy or so much more?

READING TIME: 5 MINUTES.

What is a Daruma doll?

If you have visited Japan you probably have seen these round, typically red dolls at temples and shrines. They come in a variety of sizes and may vary in color too, depending on the region of the country you are visiting. Daruma dolls are made of papier-mache and are hollow inside. They are light in weight and with their bright color and original design, they are a popular gift to take back home as a souvenir from Japan. What not many people know is that Daruma is more than a decoration or a toy. The dolls have been used for centuries as a talisman for good luck and have a design rich in symbolism. In this blog I will share the legend about Bodhidarma, the monk the dolls were named after, the reason why their eyes are left blank, how to use them to set your intention, and more.

The legend of Bodhidharma

Bodhidharma, painting by Yoshitoshi (1887)

The Daruma dolls are named after Bodhidharma, the Buddhist monk who is traditionally credited for bringing Zen Buddhism to China. The legend says that Bodhidharma was famous among other things for his practice of gazing at walls (the original Zazen.) The legend claims that he sat in meditation for a period 9 years which caused his arms and legs to fall off. The round shape of the Daruma doll is a reflection of that legend. In paintings, Bodhidharma is often depicted as a wide-eyed, profusely bearded person. The same features can be seen on the face of the Daruma dolls too.

The first Daruma dolls date back to the mid 18 century. The story goes that the founder of the Darumadera temple in Gunma prefecture would draw New Year’s charms depicting Bodhidharma. The parishioners would keep these charms ‘to bring happiness and prosperity and ward off accidents and misfortune.’

It is believed that the first Daruma figurines originated from that region when one of the priests found a solution to handle the constant requests for new charms. The charms were valid only for a year and had to be renewed constantly. The priest enstrusted the parishioners with the making of their own Daruma charms. The temple left wooden block molds for the people to use. The peasants used these molds to make papier-mache charms. [“Omocha”: Things To Play (Or Not To Play) With]

Much more than a toy: the symbolism of the Daruma

Intended to serve as a powerful charm, there is a lot of symbolism embedded in the Daruma dolls. One example of that is their shape. Traditionally Darumas were made with a round weighted bottom so they would return to an upright position when tilted over. This characteristic has come to symbolize the ability to succeed, to overcome challenges, and to recover from misfortune.

Another important symbol is the eyes of the dolls, which when sold are often blank. There are two reasons behind that. The first is that the blank eyes symbolize clarity – there is nothing to impair one’s vision. The second is that the Daruma dolls are often used as a tool for setting an intention. One of the eyes of the doll is filled in when setting the goal and the other when the goal is accomplished. In the meantime, the Daruma is put on a shelf or an altar where it can be easily seen to remind its recipient of what they had set themselves to achieve. It is also said that filling in only one of the eyes entices the Daruma to help you in your endeavor so it will get its second eye filled in too!

Choosing your Daruma

I love the Daruma dolls for their bright colors, for their unique expressions, and for the powerful symbols they embody. They are a must item to bring home from my hatsumode – the first visit to the shrine for the year. If you are choosing a Daruma doll for yourself look for the character painted on its front – it shows what the purpose of the doll is. Very often that is the character 福 (fuku). This is the one people choose when they want to invite good luck into their home. Another character that is common is 勝 (katsu) which means to win or succeed. This is a Daruma doll popular among students who have important upcoming exams or among those who have a challenge they want to overcome.

This year I discovered a pretty little Daruma shop near the Jindaiji temple, that had a variety of beautiful handmade dolls. They came in different sizes and colors – some of them were tiny while others were huge. If you are in the Jindaiji temple area check it out for some original designs. Or, if you are on one of my Jindaiji virtual tours and would like to see the shop let me know. I will be happy to take you there so you can see more of this wonderful Japanese tradition.

Tokyo’s Best Kept Secret: Jindaiji

Oshogatsu, the Japanese New Year

makaylasadamori — Tue, 05 Jan 2021 02:31:22 +0000

Oshogatsu, the Japanese New Year

READING TIME: 5 MINUTES.

The New Year, or O-Shogatsu in Japanese is Japan’s most important holiday that comes with its own customs and traditions. Many of these customs have Shinto, Buddhist, or even Feng Shui roots. They are all meant to ensure an auspicious start of the new year and usher health, success, and prosperity into your household. O-Shogatsu and the days before it is like one giant, complex ritual that every Japanese knows and engages in naturally and cheerfully. In this blog, I share about the flow of O-Shogatsu customs and traditions that make New Year’s in Japan so enjoyable and special.

Preparing for the New Year

The last days of the old year are dedicated to oosoji, or a big clean up. To ensure that the new yearly cycle begins with clean, fresh energy the Japanese clean their homes and purge them of old or not needed items. Oosoji is often the way that schools and businesses break for the holidays. Employees clean their workspace and students clean their classrooms. Even kindergarteners helped by their parents participate in the clean up of the school. While cleaning may not be everyone’s favorite thing, having a clean, uncluttered house or workspace is something everyone enjoys.

Once the clean-up is done it is time to decorate. Each decoration has its purpose and carries special symbols meant to usher in good luck and prosperity.

Walk by any home or business in Japan around the new year and you will see wreath-like braided rice straw decorations hanging on the front doors. These are called shime-nawa. Braided straw ropes are used to demarcate a sacred or purified space so shime-nawa is meant to keep your home safe. You will often see them hanging from the eaves of shrines or being wrapped around old trees together. Another part of the decoration is the zigzag-shaped shide paper streamers that are used in Shinto purification rituals.

The entrance gates of houses and buildings are often decorated with kadomatsu (literally pine gate,) another traditional New year’s decoration made of pine branches and bamboo. The kadomatsu decoration consists of three bamboo shoots and pine branches. The pine symbolizes longevity and the bamboo is the symbol of growth. The three bamboo shoots also represent heaven, humanity, and earth. They are of different heights with heaven being the highest and earth the lowest. The kadomatsu is traditionally kept by the building’s entrance till the end of the New Near’s celebrations. Once these are over, it is taken to the shrine and together with all other decorations, is burned there.

Ring out the old attachments, bring in new energy ~

Before midnight on December 31 temples all over Japan ring their bells 108 times which, according to Buddhist tradition is the number of human attachments. Again according to Buddhist teachings, it is our attachments that create all suffering. The Japanese believe that this ringing of the bell will free them of the attachments and temptations of the previous year so they can begin the new year with a clean slate. In many temples, people line up to have a go at the ringing of the bell which is a light, lively event. The last bell ring is timed to match with midnight and signals the end of the old year and the beginning of the new one. Then the bells begin to ring again, this time ringing in the 108 human virtues so we all have a year that is strong and fulfilling.

It’s time to celebrate ~

Different from what is typical in western cultures where the big celebration is on New Year’s Eve, in Japan celebration begins on the 1st of January. Many people wake up early and go out in the chilly dawn to see the first sunrise of the year. The best experience and a dream of a lifetime for many, is to meet the first Sun of the year on the top of Mt. Fuji. However, to do that you need to be fit because the mountain is almost 4,000 meters high (about 10,000 ft.) For those brave souls who are not afraid to face the elements and do the climb in total darkness, the reward is a breathtaking view of the sun rising over the sea clouds and lighting up the mountain and world below it. It is a truly magical experience.

Those of us who are unable to do the climb can still have a beautiful experience. In my family, we go to a bridge over the Tama river near our home where we wait for the sun to rise over the hills in the distance. Every year there are many people on the bridge, not only neighbors but judging from the many parked cars also people who have come from far away. There is a great feeling of ‘togetherness’ in sharing that moment which is a wonderful way to begin the new year.

Nengajo – New Year’s greeting cards

We can’t talk about O-Shogatsu without mentioning nengajo, the special New Year’s greeting cards. These cards are sent to family, friends, and colleagues to express your gratitude for their help throughout the year. Nengajo can be purchased with a holiday greeting relative to the particular year already printed on them. However, most people prefer to get blank ones and create their own designs using family photos, premade software templates, or in the past stamps. The post office begins accepting nengajo in early December, giving each a special mark to ensure it will be delivered promptly on New Year’s Day. Waiting for your bundle of postal love (they literally arrive bound together) and wading through the flood of New Year’s wishes on the first day of the year is a cherished holiday tradition similar to anticipating and opening presents. Each nengajo comes with a lottery number so each card you send or that you receive is a chance to win a prize.

Osechi-ryori, the New Year’s feast

The food for the New Year’s feast, called osechi-ryori is prepared in the days before the new year. The reasons behind this custom are two: first, to give everyone time to rest and enjoy the holidays but also to not disturb the gods with the commotion of cooking.

Osechi-ryori is meant to be a feast not only for the taste buds but also for the eyes: the traditional new year’s dishes are beautifully arranged in tiered lacquered boxes. And while some of the dishes may vary depending on which part of the country you are in, there are a few elements that are always present. These are dishes with special symbolics that when eaten are supposed to bring the family health, many children, abundant crops, deep roots, and stamina for work.

Hatsumode: the first for the year visit to the shrine

And, last but not least important tradition of the new year is hatsumode, or the first for the year visit to the shrine. Customarily it is done on one of the first three days of the year. The whole family visits their local shrine to make a prayer for a healthy and good year or for the success of whatever special goal they have set to achieve. It is the time to get an omikuji, or fortune slips that tell what will go well and what one needs to be mindful of during the year. Many people also get an amulet to keep them healthy and to ensure the success of their endeavors. This year for my hatsumode I visited the Okuni Tama shrine and took a short video there. I felt that a video will relate better than words the cheerful hatsumode atmosphere.

The New Year’s in Japan is so different from how the day is celebrated in the West. It doesn’t have the lively New Year Eve’s parties and it may seem quiet and as if nothing is happening to those, who do not know what to expect and to look for. I hope this blog brings forward some of the fun and richness of traditions that the Japanese New Year has. There is so much more to be shared about the O-Shogatsu traditions but I will stop here. Japan is famous for its cherry blossoms in the spring and the beautiful foliage colors in the fall but if you want to experience the spirit of Japan visiting during the New Year’s is a wonderful time for that.

Stories From The Shinshoji Temple

makaylasadamori — Fri, 25 Sep 2020 12:16:18 +0000

Stories From The Shinshoji Temple

READING TIME: 5 MINUTES.

A season of discoveries

Last spring, with the pandemic hitting hard, was a time of big change for me. In a matter of weeks from a very busy person, I became a person with plenty of free time on her hands. The weather was beautiful and I was dying to be outside but where to go? Friends, parks, cafes, or train rides that would take me to the city were all either closed or on the DON’T DO list. My one available pleasure was to go on bike rides. And the one thing that wasn’t closed to visitors was temples. I love temples but I hadn’t really looked for temples near my home.

To my delight, when I did a search, I discovered a real ‘treasure box’ of temples just across the river in the city of Hino. All were centuries old and most belonged to an esoteric Buddhist sect that built the world-famous temple city on Mt. Koya, in western Japan. The more I looked, the more temples I found, and the more my interest in these places and their history was piqued.

The serene face of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy

In the following couple of months, almost daily I would get on my bicycle and head to a temple on my list. These little adventures gave me a great sense of freedom and enjoyment that turned what could have been one of the worst times of my life into one of the best and richest. It not only expanded and deepened my knowledge of the amazing spiritual heritage of this country, but it also opened the gates to many new dreams and desires.

The first gem in the box

The first temple I went to was Shinshoji, an 800 year old picturesque little temple that belonged to the esoteric Shingon school of Buddhism. Stepping through its gate was like stepping into a world of serenity and peace, filled with birdsongs, sunshine, and the bright red and green of the newly opened leaves of the maple trees. I liked that the garden was informal but obviously lovingly maintained. I also liked that although many temples keep the doors of their main halls closed when there is no service, the doors of Shinshoji were left open so the altar could be seen. The soft light of the two lanterns on each side of the altar was warm and inviting as if telling the visitor that they were expected and welcome.

Shinshoji in early spring.

At that time, I learned that there was an annual pilgrimage in the city of Hino dedicated to the Seven Gods of Fortune (see my blog on the Seven Gods to learn more about these mythological deities.) Shinshoji Temple was a part of the pilgrimage and had a shrine dedicated to Ebisu, the god of Abundance and Good Luck. Unfortunately, I couldn’t see what was inside the shrine because its doors were closed, so I thought I would come again in the summer to see how the temple garden would change and (hopefully) to meet someone from the temple to show me more.

Second visit

I visited the Shinshoji again on the day of the Autumnal equinox, or Higan in Japanese, which is an important Buddhist holiday celebrated all over Japan. Traditionally it is a day to visit the family grave to clean it up, light incense, and leave flowers as an offering to one’s ancestors. Because of that, the temple was quite busy with people visiting the little graveyard it serviced.

Shinshoji’s miracle myrtle tree

I was fortunate to meet the bomori – the wife of the temple’s head priest. She kindly showed me around and told me some of the stories from the temple’s history. Like how 90 years ago there was a big fire and the crepe myrtle tree in front of the main hall burned almost completely. It was about to be cut down when the priest’s family noticed there were new shoots coming from the burnt trunk. The tree regrew and its beautiful pink flowers were like a symbol of the rebirth and continuity that the temple itself had experienced through the many centuries of its existence.

Japanese Buddhist priests traditionally inherit the position from their fathers and grandfathers so it is common for the priests tending a temple to come from the same family, generation after generation. This story was told to the bomori by the old priest, her father-in-law, now 94 years old, who was a little boy at the time and who witnessed it all.

The shrine of Ebisu

Ebisu, the god of good luck and abundance

The lady also opened the shrine of Ebisu for me so I could see the beautiful wooden statue of the deity inside it. Ebisu is also the god of fishermen, so he is often depicted with a large fish in his hand and a bright smile on his face. Who wouldn’t be this happy to have such a nice catch?

The statue was made by a famous woodcarver in Kyoto – its bright colors were well preserved and truly spectacular. Both the statue and the shrine were made of hinoki, a variety of Japanese cypress famous for its aromatic scent. Opening the doors of the shrine released a fragrance so heavenly I kept inhaling it over and over. Apparently, the little gecko that ran to hide under the altar thought the shrine was a great place too, so it had made its home there.

The bomori wasn’t bothered by that – she told me that they had a lot of geckos and that in Japanese gecko is ‘yamori’, which means a house protector, so it was a lucky thing to have them around. Perhaps Ebisu was weaving his magic and through the gecko sending good luck to the temple and its caretakers.

Shinshoji temple also has a Kannon-do – a small ‘chapel’ dedicated to Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy. Every October the temple holds a festival to honor her, with many pilgrims coming to bow and pray to the goddess. Then, at the New Year is the pilgrimage to the Seven Gods of Fortune and the serene temple grounds will become busy with visitors again. I am planning to visit Shinshoji at New Year’s myself and I hope to show you how the temple looks in its festive garb. Till then!

Makayla

Nihonji Temple: where history, magic and beauty meet

makaylasadamori — Mon, 14 Sep 2020 05:19:28 +0000

Nihonji Temple: where history, magic and beauty meet

READING TIME: 5 MINUTES.

A little bit of history

Yesterday we went on a trip to Mt. Nokogiri – the sacred mountain of the Kantō region to see the Nihonji Temple on its top. Founded in 725AD the temple is the oldest in this part of Japan. It was burnt or destroyed many times through its long history but each time rebuilt again. Centuries ago the temple was visited by some remarkable historical figures like the legendary Kūkai, the founder of the esoteric Shingon sect (and the person behind the creation of the temple city at the sacred Mt. Koya), and Ruben – the founder the famous Todaiji temple in Nara. Reading about the temple’s rich history was like reading about the history of Buddhism in Japan. Founded as a Yoga-cara school temple (an ancient form of Buddhism) it later changed its affiliation to the native Tendai school and is presently a Zen temple.

Getting there

The Pacific coast of Chiba peninsula

Mt. Nokogiri is at the southern tip of the Chiba peninsula, about an hour drive north of Tokyo. There are several ways to get to the top of the mountain where the temple complex is: there is a toll road going there, you can take a gondola lift or you can climb on foot. There is free parking available for all three options. We chose the gondola lift, a brief 4 min ride that took us to a side of the mountain with a spectacular panorama view to the Pacific coast of the peninsula and its inland mountains and the Tokyo Bay to the south. However next time I go I want to climb up on foot and experience the mountain as it was meant to be experienced when Nihonji was founded.

The temple

Needless to say, I was very excited about this trip as this was my first visit there. Apart from the huge Buddha carved into the rock and the stone statue of Kannon, there were several other things I couldn’t wait to see. Furthermore, from the photos I had seen the place seemed to have an interesting vibe: a bit mysterious that somehow reminded me of the ancient temples in Egypt. And, I love things that are mysterious!

The path to the statue of Kannon goes through a deep gorge with Jigoku Nozoki cliff in the background

I must say Nihonji temple exceeded all my expectations – it is called a temple but it isn’t the usual Buddhist temple with temple buildings and such. It is as if the whole top of the mountain is the temple! The actual temple buildings, except two pavilions, are not open to the public but there is still so much to see.

The statue of Kannon and Jigoku Nozoki

The author at the foot of the statue of Kannon

The first thing we saw was the 30 meters bas relief sculpture of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy carved into a huge cliff. The path to it goes through deep gorges with perfectly vertical walls – the area was used as a quarry several centuries ago and you can still see the marks of the carving tools on the high stone walls. Very little sunlight gets to the bottom of the gorges and the relative darkness creates the perfect environment for moss, ferns, and vines to grow. They cover the ground, the rock faces, and the statue of Kannon itself giving them a mysterious, timeless vibe. Dedicated to those who lost their lives in the War, the Kannon statue is not old – it was completed in 1966, however it looks as if it has occupied its quiet niche in the stone wall for eons.

Standing in front of Kannon’s statue if you look towards the sky you see an overhanging piece of rock stick out, the famous Jigoku Nozoki (Peep into Hell.) If you like the thrill you can go to the edge of the cliff for a breathtaking 360 degrees view of the area.

The 1500 arhats

Arhat statues – their faces are so expressive and they are all different

The path to the top of the mountain and the paths between the various locations of the complex used to be lined with the statues of 1,500 arhats. Differently from jizo (bodhisattvas who are our guides in the human experience), arhats are beings who have achieved spiritual enlightenment or nirvana. During the rather tumulous history of the temple, some of those statues were either destroyed or their heads were cut off. Fortunately, many remained intact and can be seen displayed by the paths or at their original locations. I loved seeing the arhat statues because of their expressive faces – each had its own character. Some looked lost in meditation, some were serious and others had a dream-like expression. And then there were those who seemed engaged in a lively conversation with their neighbors. The statues felt alive and like each had a story to tell I could spend the day listening to.

The Big Buddha

The Big Buddha statue of Nihonji – I couldn’t resist taking a photo with it

There are several Big Buddha statues in Japan (or Daibutsu in Japanese) – the Daibutsu in Kamakura and the one in the Todaiji temple in Nara are among the most famous. The biggest Daibutsu however is the one in Nihonji. Towering at an impressive height of 31 meters (almost 100 feet) one would expect it to be intimidating but it wasn’t. Surrounded by the green forest of the hill it was carved from, its presence was solid, serene, and strangely comforting.

Make a wish

The little Jizo to wish on

I loved the open space in front of the Daibutsu – there were benches where you could sit and rest (the way there is downhill but quite strenuous) and take in the beautiful energy of the place. On the left of the Buddha statue, there was a smaller statue of the wish-granting Jizo (bodhisattva) of Mt. Nokogiri.

In the small shop selling amulets and fortune slips, you can buy a tiny version of it and write your name on its back. Then holding it in your hands you pray to the Nokogiri Jizo to make your wish true. I didn’t get a fortune slip but I did make a wish – my jizo is together with what looked like thousand other tiny statues, each one of them delivering a wish to the deity there. You can see the big Jizo statue and the mountain of smaller ones behind it in the video I am making. I will include a link here shortly.

Beautiful Mt. Nokogiri

There is much more to see at Nihonji temple and Mt. Nokogiri – it will make for a very long travelogue if I write about it all. I also want to leave some things unsaid so you can make your discoveries if you decide to visit one day. There is one thing that I must do though and that is to give a big shout out to Mother Nature: the natural beauty of the place, lovingly maintained by its human caregivers is simply stunning. Being close to the ocean, the mountain has a climate that is milder and more humid than what we have inland. Its forests are dense and jungle-like, with palm trees that give it a very tropical vibe. There are little streams that run through the forest and their sound was sweet and cooling on the hot day we were there. So, prepare to be awed by the views you will see and to be enchanted by the lush green forest you will be walking through – both are an important contributor to the unique magic of this place.

As an epilogue

On the way out we saw a young tree with strong new branches growing out of a dead old stump. I thought that was a beautiful symbol of the history of Nihonji and the holy mountain it was built on – through the 1,300 years of its existence the temple has been destroyed many times only to spring back to life as something new again. It is old but its energy is not – just like that young tree it is beautiful and full of life.

Below is a video I took while visiting Nihonji temple. If you enjoyed it please subscribe to my YouTube channel for more videos about Japan, its beautiful nature and ancient spiritual traditions.

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Oshogatsu, the Japanese New Year

Oshogatsu, the Japanese New Year

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Ring out the old attachments, bring in new energy ~

It’s time to celebrate ~

Nengajo – New Year’s greeting cards

Osechi-ryori, the New Year’s feast

Hatsumode: the first for the year visit to the shrine

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Stories From The Shinshoji Temple

Stories From The Shinshoji Temple

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The first gem in the box

Second visit

The shrine of Ebisu

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Nihonji Temple: where history, magic and beauty meet

Nihonji Temple: where history, magic and beauty meet

A little bit of history

Getting there

The temple

The statue of Kannon and Jigoku Nozoki

The 1500 arhats

The Big Buddha

Make a wish

Beautiful Mt. Nokogiri

As an epilogue

Archives