READING TIME: 5 MINUTES.
When it is hot hot hot the way to go is North!
Summers in Japan are generally hot and humid. There is, however one place that enjoys a very different climate from the rest of the country and that is Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island. a few years ago our son spent 6 months working on a project in Sapporo, the island’s main city, so we combined a visit to see him with sightseeing I had been wanting to do for quite some time.
Summertime Sapporo, the main city of Hokkaido
My one and only previous visit to Hokkaido was when I had just arrived in Japan 3 decades ago – it was at the New Year’s and everything was covered with a deep blanket of snow. I did not remember much but the great ski slopes and the delicious sea food we had. I wanted to see the island in the summer, drive inland and enjoy the cooler weather and beautiful landscapes. Hokkaido however had a grand surprise for us, which was cold and rain. It rained for four days of the week we spent there! That seemed to be not uncommon, to be honest far from perfect, but at the same time the rain and the fog made everything look mysterious, sometimes even otherworldly. It was a fantastic experience so I had no complains 🙂 Here our journey into dark and rainy Hokkaido begins ~
A jump into the past of Japan’s northern frontier – Otaru
A fishing boats harbor in Otaru – note the houses in the background with a distinct northern European architecture
One thing to keep in mind about Hokkaido is that it was colonized and became a part of Japan only in the late 1800-es. Because of that, it has its distinct flavor that is not quite Japanese. The first place we visited – Otaru, was a good example of that. A small harbor city an hour away of Sapporo, Otaru played an important role as a trade and fishing port in the early days of colonization. The influence of Western culture and architecture there was quite palpable. Walking through the old part of town, where many old trading companies had their offices and warehouses, was like a jump into the past of Japan’s northern frontier.
The old offices of Mitsui Bank in Otaru
In present days many of those buildings have been converted into restaurants, cafes and galleries. Each building had its own character and I greatly enjoyed walking down the street and seeing the creative ways the city had preserved its history.
Me, enjoying a late afternoon walk in rainy Otaru
The city is also famous with its glass-works – it was a treat to browse through shops offering beautifully made objects and jewelry made of glass.
Halloween in August – Otaru has the vibe!
To me, the rain and the fog didn’t take a way from the charm of Otaru but enhanced it and gave the town a mysterious, almost Halloween-esque atmosphere. The late afternoon was dark but the light coming from the windows of the old houses lining Otaru’s streets and canals was warm and inviting, so magical. I loved it!
Halloween in August – rain, fog and warm lights by one of Otaru’s canals
Food – simply delicious!
Hokkaido is famous with its fresh seafood, particularly uni (sea-urchins,) scallops and herrings. Otaru, being a fishing harbor has many restaurants offering fish and other sea-food caught just a few hours before it is served. For dinner we went to a traditional restaurant where we had the freshest sashimi, herring cooked and presented in a very creative way and some of the best yaki-tori (chicken skewers) we had ever had.
Hokkaido is a place for fresh seafood
What added to the enjoyment of our dining experience was the atmosphere – very often the restaurants are small and located in old Japanese style houses – we loved that!
An old house in Otaru turned into a restaurant
Fishing has been and still is an important part of the livelihood of Hokkaido’s people. This has been reflected in their folklore with one of the most famous Japanese song and dance – Soran Bushi, originating from the area. Soran Bushi, a dance that depicts ocean waves and fishermen dragging out of the water nets heavy with herring is taught in many schools in Japan and is something Japanese kid perform at their school sports festivals. I am attaching a video here for you to hear this beautiful traditional song and see how amazing the kids are performing the dance that asks for quite a lot of agility.
Part 2 of our trip will take us to Tomamu, a famous ski resort in the heart of the island and the Tomita flower and lavender fields
* The Spirit of Japan Tours organizes private and group tours to temples and sites where you can experience the richness of Japan’s spirituality and traditions. Please, message us for more information about our future tours.
